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Voyage 2013-2014: Chapter 3

North to New England

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20 Jun 2014, Shelburne NS, 43 45.237 N/ 065 19.78 W

Two days ago, we left P-town for Shelburne Nova Scotia. It was a two night passage which Ann and Sammy Jane have learned to not like very much. Still the weather was kind as were the seas. We even had the help from the moon. Though we were a little concerned about whales we never saw one. Even better, we never hit one. This morning we saw the lights from Seal Island and Sable Island so we knew it would not be much further. The wind was 10-15 kts until we shook out the reef then 15-20 with larger gusts. It is just not fair! But it did not last long. Soon we were in the long Shelburne Harbour where wind and seas eased. What a wonderful sight to behold when we approached the town of Shelburne.

12 Jul 2014, 10 Days in Shelburne Nova Scotia, 42 02.766 N/ 070 10.95 W

The Shelburne Harbour Yacht Club provides guest privileges to visiting cruisers that take a slip or mooring ball. What a wonderful place! Everyone was so friendly, the facility is impeccable, and ... it's just nice here. They have a happy hour, race day burgers, Friday dinner, and Sunday breakfast once or twice a month. We liked it so much we joined the YC.
On Saturday's, the community hosts a farmers market in the center of the historic district. Some of the folks play local Nova Scotian music which resembles Blue Grass in the USA. Very entertaining! The local brewery, Boxing Rock, had a booth in the market. Fine tasting beer in designer 1.5 liter bottles. Got to get one of those. We would later walk the 3 km to the brewery and get a bottle of Hunky Dory in the neat bottle.
The town of Shelburne was founded in 1783 when Loyalists departed the new formed United States and fled to Nova Scotia. It is a different context where the 'Red Coats' are the good guys. You can see re-enactments performed by the 'Red Coats' on Wednesday afternoons near the Dory building.
We came to enjoy the Thursday evening keel boat races We had our own favorites which we dare not post here. It was actually quite exciting to watch until they disappeared into the fog. Cruisers Myron (SV Hold Fast) and Ian (SV Ruffian) were crew on two different Thursday races. BTW, we have raced only twice in our lives and will never do it again. But it is fun to watch.
Found the church! It is St. Thomas on Harriet St. and it has Masses on Wednesday at 1200 and Sunday at 1130. Church is simple but the priest does great sermons. The active congregation is about 40 souls with lots of great singing and friendly folks. Nothing wrong with this town yet.
Hurricane Arthur came a visiting last Friday and Sunday with a landfall about 60 km west of us. For the sake of the cat (and us), we found lodging at Shelburne Harbour cottages (thanks Dave and Annette for welcoming Sammy Jane). We secured Jule as best as we could while Bruce (Commodore) and Jason (Manager) of SHYC assured us the mooring were secure. Sure enough; with almost 24 hours of winds of 40-70 kts all of the boats in the mooring field survived without harm. However, the town and the countryside fared far worse. While in the YC, we could hear shingles popping off the roof. The town was littered with trees and branches everywhere. And many places did not have electricity for 5 days. However, nobody was hurt!
We rented a car with another cruising couple which we knew. We went to see many fine places, such as Peggy's Cove light. We hear bagpipes playing; Ann bought lots of trinkets for the house, and Bob payed for them. We had fun, but the trip cost a lot more than money. Something that we considered valuable was lost. Such is life.
One of Ann's favorite entertainments was watching the really little ones learning to sail. Rain, shine, wind, or not; these little guys and gals would go out. We would have been scared but they were not. Capsizes, and flogging sails did not detract from their interest in sailing. The YC has a recognized program for teaching all ages the art of sailboat racing.
The staff of SHYC included four newbies that were hired for the summer. Bret, Kait, Emily (pictured here), and Natalie (her picture did not turn out very well). They are all going to a university to study some pretty amazing things. They took care of YC business and tended the bar during the afternoons. They all were very kind to us.
Mary was our first and last contact with the Club. She took our reservation before we arrived and we got our goodbye hug as we headed back to Jule on departure day. Mary made lots of things happen for us that would not have been possible otherwise. Thanks Mary!
Jason, the manger helped us tie up in very windy conditions, assured us all would be right after Arthur, and arranged for us to become members of SHYC. Bruce, the Commodore, would make it a point to see how we were doing whenever our paths cross. He knows all things about the Club and his direction makes everything tick. Unfortunately, we did not see Bruce on our last day when we were taking pictures.
Yesterday, we slipped our mooring and headed down the Harbour. We anchored off of McNutts Island (only 10 nm distant) to posture ourselves for a 'comfortable rounding of Cape Sable. We knew we were leaving when we passed Sandy Pt. light midway down the Harbour.
The rounding of the Cape was lumpy and full of current. There was little wind but the swell from three days of strong winds was impressive. As we headed NW, we were treated with a great sunset. Tomorrow we will deal with the dreaded lobster traps of Maine waters. Lobster traps are removed from the waters of Southwestern Nova Scotia by 1 June. Not bad.

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